By: DAVID RICE
Re: Vacation #1 of
What I did on my Summer Vacation.
In August, during Dragonfest, I took a week off work and went
on vacation. I chartered a thirty-two-foot yacht called
"Sloop de Jour" out of Dana Point, and shoved off, all alone,
to Santa Catalina just before noon on Monday. Catalina is 48
nautical miles away, due West (true, not magnetic).
Provisions included a huge pile of exotic (i.e. frozen)
Mexican foods, several bags of quasi-exotic (i.e.
half-frozen) Chinese dishes with mysterious ingredients in
them, a jar of dill pickles, a brick of tofu (extra firm), a
dozen limes, a pint of Bombay rum, a dozen corn tortillas,
and half a can of salsa that had been in my refrigerator for
so long that it had a patina of blackened, aged tomato guts
around the rim. I travel first class.
Loading the boat was a mercilessly hot job. I loaded 50
pounds of chain aboard in case the anchors needed it (why use
rope when one can over-kill with steel?), filled the on-board
water tanks, and stowed five gallons of drinking water. I
filled the "solar shower" bag with 2.5 gallons of water, and
while I was rolling up the hose this bag oozed like an
octopus over the rail and plunged into the harbor. (This was
to later prove to be prophetic.) I managed to grab the water
bag before it sunk, and put it on the salon hatch.
I managed to back the boat out of the slip without hitting
anything and sinking it. I had the unnerving feeling that I
didn't dare look back least the charter company change it's
mind about allowing ME of all people to use one of their
boats, and had sent someone out to stop me. I had lied to
them about my having crew for the trip.
The trip down the breakwater was dicey. The helm would not
lock down (screws were stripped), so steering was a constant
job. I tried to tie the wheel down with a mooring line, and
then rush to the mast to hoist the main sail, but the boat
was careening all over the inner harbor. The inner harbor was
VERY crowded with boats coming and going. It took me almost
twenty minutes to figure out which line did what--- something
I should have done while still tied to the slip.
I got the main sail up eventually, while dodging kayaks, wave
riders, jet skis, buoys, Sea Scouts, and Harbor Patrol
launches. I got the jib up and pulling, wing-and-wing, but by
then I was worn out and ready to cancel the vacation.
The trip to Catalina was quite an ordeal, since the
prevailing wind blows on the exact course one must take to
get to Catalina, so even though the wind was blowing well, I
had to take the sails down and motor. It's not very easy to
do when no one is steering the boat directly into the wind.
The magnetic variation is 14 degrees East, but I didn't
remember if I was to add or subtract that 14 degrees from 270
(West). My chart was down below, but I pulled up the chart in
memory and calculated a heading of 256 degrees magnetic,
which happened to be correct.
One thing about sailing away into the setting sun is that my
destination isn't visible except on very clear days. I
couldn't tell if the island was actually where I thought it
was. With limited fuel, poor wind, and no crew, this is quite
a leap of faith.
For six grueling hours I steered the boat, wondering if I was
on course. Eventually the island showed up--- I was a few
degrees too South, probably due to the current (it couldn't
possibly be my navigation or steering).
In Avalon I quickly showered and caught a shore launch into
town, where I found a Mexican restaurant and ate 6
enchiladas, 3 plates of rice, 2 margaritas, and 1 glass of
iced tea. The waitress asked, in mock disbelief, if I would
"like any more food," while I moaned in pain from my
gluttonous feeding frenzy (I'm a white American male, after
all). I waddled back to the harbor taxi and was delivered to
my boat.
The swells were rising and dropping by at least four feet,
and getting aboard from the taxi was a harrowing experience
(the couple whos boat we went to first had an infant--- the
father went aboard first and then the baby was tossed like a
football to its father by its mother. It reminded me of how
Bonobo Chimps raise their young.). One must be cold sober to
accomplish the feat I was to perform, or one gets crushed
between two hulls and / or drowns. I was neither sober or
breathing well (due to the pressure from my gut against my
lungs) but I managed.
Sleeping that night was a bitch. The mooring was South /
North, but the swells were marching from West to East. It is
not an exaggeration to say that the boat rolled 40 degrees
from plumb. Naturally the berths were laid out bow to stern.
The upshot of this was that I was constantly thrown violently
against the hull on the up swell, and slammed to the deck on
the down swell. I tried to sleep on my stomach with my arms
braced against the deck, but I'd eaten so much that this
position was painful. Sheeeish. I ended up sleeping on the
deck with my head in the wine rack under the chart table and
my feet in the galley's oven, thus achieving a personal
bodily alignment West and East, which converted the rocking
into pitching. Easier, but still it was not an easy night.
In the morning I bagged the main sail to make it look pretty,
since I had decided to motor instead of sail. While bagging
the sail, I accidentally kicked the solar shower bag over the
side. While it was going down for the third count, I ran
below, got the boat hook, ran back on deck, reached over the
side to snag the bag, and harpooned it instead. It sunk to
the bottom like a lead brick, with a "why me?" look on its
face.
It took three hours to get to Little Harbor. Along the way I
passed the rock quarry where the side of the island has been
sawed off and carted away. I was fortunate enough to pass
just as an explosion was set off--- I thought my boat had
blown up until I saw a tiny part of the cliff fall apart.
Little Harbor is mildly risky to get into, since the opening
has reefs awash even at high tide. There were four sail boats
anchored there when I arrived, which added to the complexity
of anchoring myself.
Anchoring was hard work. Before I left Avalon I had checked
both anchors, setting the stern anchor on the deck for ready
use. When I motored into Little Harbor I had to dodge all
four boats, a reef, and two scuba divers. One boat was
single-handed by a woman who watched me as I came in: I gave
her my best Buccaneer, swashbuckling
I-have-a-rather-large-penis-and-I- know-how-to-use-it grin,
sucked in my gut, and waved at her. She waved back and
pointed at the scuba divers, which I promptly aimed for.
I slowly motored up as close to the reef as possible, put the
boat in reverse a tiny bit to check forward motion, put it in
neutral, then raced to the bow to drop the anchor. It struck
bottom without a hitch. . . just like my solar shower did,
come to think of it. I then raced back to the helm, put the
boat in reverse again and left it that way, then raced back
to the bow to let out the rode. After letting out a
seven-to-one scope, I belayed the line, raced back to the
helm, and put the boat in hard reverse, digging the anchor in
tight. Then I raced back (pant, pant) to the bow and groped
the anchor line to see if I could feel the anchor dragging.
It wasn't, so I raced back (pant, pant, pant) to the helm and
put the boat into neutral again. The I raced back to the bow
(pant, gasp, gasp) and let out a great deal of rode until the
boat was damn near on the beach. I dropped the stern anchor
in the surf, eased the boat forward, put it in neutral, then
raced (gasp, wheeze) to the bow to suck up the slack while
the stern rode played itself out. After gaining a
fifteen-to-one scope (twice what is required), I tied off the
bow anchor line, raced back to the helm (wheeze, gasp, cough
cough), tied the stern line down with a ten-to-one scope,
then powered forward to set the stern anchor. Then I picked
up the remaining slack at the bow, cut the engine, and bowed
to the woman I had previously waved to, who was watching me
all the time. She gave me an "okay" gesture. . . or was it a
"fuck-off" gesture? I dunno, since my eye glasses were below.
Needless to say, anchoring is a whole lot easier with crew.
The beach was covered with Sea Scouts. Shit. There were pup
tents everywhere. Fortunately I was anchored far enough out
so that I didn't have to hear them. I had planned on swimming
to the beach in the evening and having a camp fire, but the
Scouts got there first.
The boat's dining table converted into a bunk, whereby it may
be lowered to lay flush with the salon's seats and thus
become a rather large bed. I didn't know this when I was
being slammed around the night before. It was great to sleep
aligned with the roll (Little Harbor is on the South side,
and the swells were going from West to East, so the swells
were not much of a problem).
So there I stayed for four or five days (I already forget
which). I read a collection of essays by Asimov on various
sciences, a larger collection of essays about the
evolutionary sciences by Gould, the surviving Sappho sonnets,
and a book on Bible history.
Every morning I would get out of bed, don flippers and mask,
and jump over the side. I'd swim around the boat a few times,
dive under it, then swim to the beach and back. Then I'd fix
breakfast, eat and read, take a nap, swim some more, eat
lunch, read, swim, read, swim, eat dinner, swim, read, eat
some snacks, read, and then have a late-night naked swim.
(Much like Dopefish, I imagine.) The diatoms were excited and
happy to see me, as they clung to my damp, manly body while I
forcefully, deftly penetrated the inviting folds of the sea
and rhythmically ungulated between its wet, warm thighs,
gently caressed by grasping, eager swells. I thought about
the woman anchored next to me, and wondered why she didn't
paddle over and surrender herself to me utterly. Didn't she
know what she was missing?! Ah, well. She wasn't the first.
One day I went ashore to climb the cliffs overlooking the
harbor, just as the Sea Scouts decided to do the same. Having
several dozen kids climbing the cliffs reminded me of the
movie "Lord of the Flies." I started to chant "Kill the pig,
kill the pig, kill the pig. . . ." but no one else picked up
the chant. Stupid kids.
Two teenage girls motored in on a Boston Whaler, and found a
place to jump off the cliffs and into the water. I was
enjoying watching them from the boat, as they would launch
themselves into space and then squeal all the way down. This
behavior was meant to attract teenage boys of the same
species. Goddess, I felt old.
When the girls left, I swam to the cliff, climbed to the top,
and flung myself off, yelling "Piggy!!!!!" Ten liters of
water slammed into my ears and stayed there for two weeks,
which was a real pain in the. . . er, ah, "ass" doesn't quite
fit here, but it was damn annoying. I poured a mixture of
alcohol and vinegar in my ears, but it didn't help.
After a few days the Lone Woman, who had by then grown to
mythic stature in my imagination (I was doing her every night
in my dreams) sailed away, without ever knowing how happy I
could have made her. Ah, well. Hardly the first time, as I
said.
One day I dove on my anchors to see how well they were
holding. I got to the bottom after a fight (my fat was
keeping me on the surface), and found them well entrenched.
After checking out the bow anchor, which was the deepest, I
broke the surface and was met by an airborne flying fish as
it madly slapped the water with its "wings" and tail. It
slammed into my face mask face-first. Needless to say, we
were both astonished and surprised. If I hadn't been wearing
the diving mask I would have been injured, it hit that hard.
The fish gave a twitch or two then swam away.
A large power boat dog-paddled up, dropped ONE anchor, and
then cranked up very, very crappy "Rock" music. Estimating
the rode on his bow anchor, I thought his boat would slam
into mine once the wind died down, since the wind was
countering the swells. Once the wind died, which it does in
the early evening, the swells would put his boat right on my
beam. The master and commander of the boat was an obnoxious,
boisterous, arrogant Archey Bunker type who wouldn't turn his
noise down long enough to hear what I was yelling at him "Put
down a
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