PART V
Altogether I spent 14 rainy seasons in Chanthaburi, to the point where
I almost came to regard it as my home. At present there are eleven
monasteries that I founded in the province:
1) Wat Paa Khlawng Kung (Shrimp Canal Forest Monastery),
Chanthaburi district;
2) Wat Sai Ngam (Beautiful Banyan Monastery), Baan Nawng Bua,
Chanthaburi district;
3) Wat Khao Kaew (Chinese Boxwood Mountain Monastery),
Chanthaburi district;
4) Wat Khao Noi (Little Mountain Monastery), Thaa Chalaeb;
5) Wat Yang Rahong (Stately Rubber Tree Monastery), Thaa Mai
district;
6) Wat Khao Noi (Little Mountain Monastery), Thaa Mai district;
7) Wat Khao Jam Han, Laem Singh district;
8) Wat Laem Yang (Rubber Tree Point Monastery), Laem Singh
district;
9) Wat Mai Damrong Tham, Khlung district;
10) Wat Baan Imang, Khlung district; and
11) Samnak Song Saam Yaek at the Agriculture Experimental
Station near the waterfall on Sra Baab Mountain.
All of these place have monks living on a regular basis. Some of
them are full-fledged monasteries, while the others are officially
still just "monks" residences."
In 1941 the war with the French and the Second World War broke out.
During the war and after, I wandered about in various provinces until
1949. With the war finally over, I thought of going back to India
again. So in November of that year I got ready to apply for a new
passport.
Going to India this time turned out to be complicated by the fact
that the war was newly over. When I got ready to apply for my
passport, I asked the person who looked after my funds, Khun Amnaad,
how much money there was. His answer: "70 baht." But just the
application fee for a new passport was 120 baht. This being the case,
the lay people who knew of my plans came to dissuade me from going,
but I told them, "I have to go."
"But 70 baht isn't enough for the trip!"
"The money isn't taking the trip," I told them. "I am."
With this, my followers understood that I really did have to go, and
one by one they began to gather funds for my travel expenses. One day
Phraya Latphli Thamprakhan, along with Nai Chamnaan Lyyprasoed, came
to stay at the monastery. When they learned I was going to India, we
had the following exchange: Phraya Latphli put two questions to me:
"1) Why go? Each of us already has the Dhamma inside. 2) Do you know
their language?"
I answered, "Burmese and Indians are people, just like me. Are
there any people in the world who don't know the language of people?"
Phraya Latphli: "How are you going to go? Do you have enough
money?"
"Always enough."
Phraya Latphli: "What will you do if your money gives out?"
"It'll probably give out the way cloth gives out: a little bit at a
time. Don't you think I'll know in advance before it's all gone?"
Phraya Latphli: "Do you know any English?"
"I'm 40 years old. If I studied English or Hindi, I bet I could do
better than English or Hindi children."
We didn't have the chance to talk further, so Phraya Latphli added,
"I was just testing you."
"No offense taken," I told him, "but I had to speak that way."
Not long after that, when the lay people, monks and novices had
canvassed among themselves and come up with a little more than 10,000
baht to help with my travel expenses, I left Chanthaburi for Bangkok,
where I stayed at Wat Boromnivasa. With the assistance of a number of
my followers who were policemen -- headed by Police Colonel
Sudsa-nguan Tansathit -- I started to apply for my passport and visas.
Getting my money exchanged took a lot of running around, and almost
didn't succeed because at that time the price of the British pound on
the black market had risen to 50 baht, while the official exchange
rate was 35. We were sent from one place to another, and as things
got more and more complicated we began to give up hope. So I made a
vow: "I'm going to visit friends and the spots where the Buddha once
dwelled. On my last trip things still weren't clear, so I want to go
once more. If I'm really going to get to go this time, may someone
come and help get my money exchanged."
Four days after I had made my vow, Nai Bunchuay Suphasi (now a
lieutenant with the Mounted Police) showed up and asked me, "Than
Phaw, have you been able to exchange your money yet?"
"No, not yet."
"Then I'll take care of it for you."
For a week after that he went around making contacts with the
Treasury Ministry, the Education Ministry and the Interior Ministry.
He received letters of recommendation from his friends and a letter of
guarantee from the Assistant Minister of the Interior, Lieng
Chayakaan, now a member of the Lower House, representing Ubon
Ratchathani province. He then went to the National Bank, where at
first he was told that my case "didn't qualify for permission to
exchange at the official rate." So he went to consult Nai Jarat
Taengnoi and Nai Sompong Janthrakun, who worked in the National Bank.
Finally I was given permission to exchange at the official rate on the
recommendation of Nai Jarat, who supported my request on the grounds
that my trip was for the purpose of spreading Buddhism abroad, which
was in the interest both of the nation and of the religion. I thus
exchanged my money for, altogether, 980 pounds sterling.
Then, with my money exchanged, I applied for my passport and visas.
In the Foreign Affairs Ministry, Nai Prachaa Osathanon, head of the
Passport Office, took care of everything for me, including contacting
his friends in the Thai embassies in Burma and India. I then applied
for my visas at the British Embassy. Everything was now ready for me
to go.
So in February, 1950, I left Thailand by plane. Nang Praphaa, a
follower of mine who worked with Thai Airways, helped me get a ticket
at a reduced rate, almost 50 percent off the full fare. The plane
left Don Muang Airport at 8 a.m. I was accompanied on this trip by a
monk named Phra Samut and a lay man, Nai Thammanun. At about 11 a.m.
the plane reached the Rangoon Airport, where I was met by officials
from the Thai embassy: M.L. Piikthip Malakun, Nai Supan Sawedmaan and
Nai Sanan. They took me to stay in a sanctuary attached to the Schwe
Dagon Pagoda. I stayed in Burma about 15 days, going around to see
the sights in Rangoon -- although there was little to see but
bombed-out ruins. The Karen war was flaring up near Mandalay.
One day we went to Pegu to pay our respects to a large reclining
Buddha image in a township near there. We met Burmese troops keeping
a watch over the area. They were very helpful: Wherever we went, a
contingent of twelve soldiers went along. When we stopped for the
night, they stayed as our bodyguard. We spent the night on Mutao
Chedi, whose spire had broken off. All night long we heard nothing
but the boom of the big guns, so I asked one of the soldiers with us,
"What are they shooting?"
"They're shooting to frighten off the Communists," he answered.
Early the next morning two Burmese women came to talk with us, and
then invited us to eat at their home.
After I had finished seeing the sights in Rangoon, I got ready to go
on to India.
While I was in Rangoon I met a Thai, named Saiyut, who had been
ordained as a monk in Burma. He took me to an old palace to meet a
Burmese princess, 77 years old, the daughter of King Thibaw of
Mandalay. We sat talking for a while. I described Thai customs to
the princess, and she described Burmese customs to me. In the course
of our conversation, she mentioned to me, "I'm Thai, you know," and
then asked me in Thai, "Do you like //khanom tom//?" but didn't want
to say much more than that. From what she said, I gathered that her
ancestors had been carried off from Thailand when the Burmese sacked
Ayutthaya. Her name was Sudanta Chandadevi.
She then asked a favor of me. "At the moment I have no more income,"
she said. This was because a new government had just come into power
and cut the stipends of the old nobility. "Please take pity on me.
You and I are both Thai. It would be good if you could put in a word
for me at the Thai embassy."
"Don't worry," I told her. "I'll help."
So I took the princess" case to M.L. Piikthip Malakun. Both he and
his wife were good-hearted people. M.L. Piikthip took me to see Phra
Mahiddha, the Ambassador to Burma at the time. Meeting him was like
meeting an old relative. The entire embassy staff was very helpful.
Before I left for India I recommended that they help the princess both
on an official and on a personal basis.
In March, 1950, I left Rangoon by plane, reaching Calcutta Airport
at about four in the afternoon. The captain of the flight turned out
to be an old friend -- he has since died in an airplane crash in Hong
Kong. When we took off he boasted that he could fly the plane any way
I liked -- high, low, reckless. He said that he'd take me up to
10,000 feet. We ran into a lot of turbulence near the Himalayan
mountains, and the air got so cold I had to leave the cockpit, return
to my seat and wrap myself up in a blanket.
When we landed we parted ways because airline personnel had special
rights, unlike ordinary passengers. As for me, I had to have my
things inspected, my health certificates inspected -- but when it came
to the "darkroom," they made a special exception in my case. Inside
the "darkroom" the light was blinding. Everyone who went inside had
to strip naked so that the officials could inspect him. But luckily
there was a Sikh who, when he saw me stick my head into the room,
smiled at me as a sign that he would help me out. As a result, I
didn't have to be inspected.
We waited there at the airport until sunset, when a Westerner came
and politely told us that a company car was about to come and pick us
up. A moment or so later we piled our things into the car. We
traveled a good many miles into Calcutta and went to stay at the Maha
Bodhi Society. When we arrived we found that the executive secretary,
an old friend of mine, wasn't there. He had taken some of the
Buddha's relics to a celebration in New Delhi and then gone on to
Kashmir. The monks who were staying at the Society, though, were very
helpful in every way because I had been a member of the Society for
many years. They fixed us a place to stay on the third floor of the
building.
While there we spent many days contacting the immigration
authorities before our visa papers could be straightened out. I
stayed at the Maha Bodhi Society until it neared time for the rains,
when I made plans to go on to Ceylon. I took my draft to the bank,
but there learned that the bank that had sold me the draft had no
branches in India. The bank therefore wouldn't accept the draft.
They went on to tell me that to exchange the draft I would have to go
all the way to London. This is when things started looking bad. I
checked our funds -- Nai Thammanun had about 100 rupees left. It was
going to be hard to get around. Yet, at the same time, we had more
than 800 pounds sterling with us that the Indian banks wouldn't accept
because there was a lot of anti-British feeling at the time. They
didn't want to use the British pound, and didn't want to speak English
unless they really had to. So as a result, we were caught out in the
rain along with the British.
Finally I made up my mind to chant, meditate and make a vow: May I
receive some help in my monetary problems. And then one day, at about
five in the evening, Nai Thanat Nawanukhraw, a commercial attache with
the Thai consulate, came to visit me and asked, "Than Ajaan, do you
have money to use?"
"Yes," I answered him, "but not enough."
So he pulled out his wallet and made a donation of 2,000 rupees.
Later that evening my friend who was the executive secretary of the
Maha Bodhi Society returned and invited me up to his room for a chat.
He gave me a warm welcome and then we talked in Pali. "Do you have
enough money?" he asked. "Don't be bashful. You can ask for whatever
you need at any time."
"Thank you very much," I answered in English, and he smiled in
response. From that day on I was put at my ease in every way.
Just as the rains were about to begin, a monk who was a very good
friend of mine -- an official at Sarnath named Sangharatana -- invited
us to go spend the rains there, and so I accepted his invitation. The
following morning he went on ahead, and then two days before the
beginning of the Rains Retreat we followed along. At about noon the
next day we reached his temple. My friends there had fixed places for
us to stay, one to a room, in a large 40-room dormitory. Thus I spent
the Rains Retreat there in Sarnath.
Things were made very convenient for us during the rains. The
friends I had made during my first trip were still there. Eating
arrangements were also convenient. Every day, early in the morning,
they'd bring Ovaltine and three or four chappatties to your room, and
just that was enough to fill you up. But then a little later in the
morning they'd serve a regular meal with bean and sesame curries and
rice -- but no meat. We ate vegetarian-style, although some days
there would be fish.
There was chanting every evening during the Rains Retreat. They
chanted just like we do in Thailand, only very fast. When the
chanting was over I'd go to pay my respects to the great ruined chedi
to the north of the sanctuary. Some days I'd go into Benares to look
at the temples of the Hindus, Tibetans, Burmese, Singhalese, etc. One
night, towards the end of the rains, when the moon was bright, I went
to sit alone in front of the sanctuary after we had finished our
chants. I sat there in meditation in the middle of the bright,
moonlit night, focusing on the top of the chedi, thinking of King
Asoka, who had done so much for the religion. After I had focused on
the chedi a long while, a brilliant light began to flicker and flash
around the trees and the chedi. I thought to myself: "Relics of the
Lord Buddha probably really do exist."
One day, when the rains were almost over, the officials of the Maha
Bodhi Society invited us to go to the airport to meet a plane carrying
relics of Phra Moggallana and Phra Sariputta that were on their way
back from a celebration organized by the Indian government in New
Delhi. So we all went along to the airport. When the plane landed, a
little after 11 a.m., they had us get on the plane to receive the
small bronze chedi containing the relics. We then took the chedi to
the Sarnath Maha Bodhi Society. I didn't ask for a chance to look at
the relics because I wasn't really interested. Afterwards they sent
the relics for safe keeping to the Calcutta office, and so I never got
to see them.
After the rains were over I began receiving letters -- some by
special delivery, others by ordinary mail -- from Thailand and Burma.
The gist of them all was that they wanted me to return right away to
Rangoon because Princess Sudanta Chandadevi was now receiving a
stipend and was overjoyed. Her children had gotten their friends
together and were planning to build a temple in Rangoon, so would I
please come right away and help with the arrangements.
Learning this I hurried back to Calcutta, got my travel papers in
order and flew to Rangoon. There I was met at the airport by members
of the temple committee. They took me straight to the princess"
palace, where a committee of 30 or so people were in the midst of
holding a meeting. The committee -- composed of old nobility,
government officials, merchants and householders -- was discussing
plans to buy land for the temple: seven acres on a tall hill. The
owner was willing to sell the land for around 30,000 rupees. When I
had learned the general outlines of their proposal, I returned to
stay, as before, at Schwe Dagon.
I then took the matter to the Thai embassy to seek their advice. By
that time Phra Mahiddha had been transferred to another country,
leaving M.L. Piikthip Malakun acting in his place. He told me that it
would be good to handle the matter through official channels so that
the embassy would be in a position to give its full cooperation. As
for the temple committee, they were looking for help from Thailand
because their objective was to build a temple Thai in every way. The
chairman of the committee was an old man of about 70, a former
politician who in the old days had commanded great respect. He was
the mentor of U Nu, the prime minister of Burma. It seemed to me that
the matter was sure to come through. I was put in contact with scores
of Thai people in Rangoon, and everyone seemed enthusiastic about the
project.
Not long afterwards, though, I started receiving frequent letters
from Bangkok containing news that didn't sound very good, some of it
having to do with Nai Bunchuay Suphasi, so I decided to return to
Thailand in order to contact the Thai government and Sangha and inform
them of the proposal on my own.
In December, 1950, I took a plane from Rangoon to Bangkok -- the
monk who had gone with me to India had already returned a good many
days before. In Bangkok I stayed with Somdet Phra Mahawirawong (Uan)
at Wat Boromnivasa. I informed the Somdet of the plans to build a
temple in Rangoon. He thought the matter over several days, and just
as he was about to give me permission to fly back to Burma, I ran into
interference. A number of monks, having heard the news that a temple
was going to be built in Rangoon, started getting into the act, saying
that Ajaan Lee wouldn't be able to succeed without them. They had
received letters to that effect from Rangoon, they said. How they
were able to know that, I have no idea. These monks were all titled,
high-ranking ecclesiastical officials right here in Bangkok.
When I learned this, I dropped the whole matter and was no longer
involved. I sent a letter to the Thai embassy in Burma, asking to
withdraw from the proposal. That finished it off. To this day I have
yet to see anyone build the temple.
This being the way things were, I left Wat Boromnivasa and returned
to visit my supporters in Chanthaburi. During this period there were
all sorts of people, jealous and angry with me, who tried to smear my
name in every conceivable way, but I'd rather not name their names
because I believe they helped me by making me more and more
determined.
* * *
With the approach of the rainy season I left Chanthaburi to return to
Wat Boromnivasa, and then went to teach meditation to the lay people
at Wat Saneha, Nakhorn Pathom province. From there I went to stay at
Wat Prachumnari, Ratchaburi province, at the request of Chao Jawm
Sapwattana, head of the temple committee. I stayed at this temple
several days, and during that time there were a lot of very strange
events.
One morning a woman of about 20 came and sat in front of the sermon
seat. A moment later she went into convulsions. So I made some
lustral water and sprinkled her with it. I started questioning her
and learned that there was a spirit of a man who had died a violent
death dwelling in the area, and that it would possess people, causing
them to be covered with hives, each swelling about the size of your
thumb. When I learned this, I had no medicine to give her, but I was
chewing betel nut, so I took the chewed-up remains, threw them down
next to her and had her eat them. The swellings disappeared. This
happened altogether three different times, and there were a good
number of witnesses each time.
Several days later, just as I was getting ready to leave, a woman
named Nang Samawn, a niece of Nang Ngek in Bangkok, came to see me.
She had once been ordained as a nun, but had later returned to lay
life and married a former justice of the peace in Ratchaburi. She was
about 40, and had a son aged 15. She held me in great esteem:
Whenever I came to the Bangkok area she would always come to seek me
out. That day, at about five in the evening, she came with an
offering of flowers, candles and incense, so I asked her, "What can I
do for you, Mother Samawn?"
She answered, "I've come to ask you for a child."
As soon as I heard this, I started feeling uneasy, because there
were only a few people present, and on top of that she was speaking in
a whisper. So I said out loud, "Wait until more people come." I was
thinking of the future -- if she really did give birth to another
child, I'd be in a spot. So I wanted the whole affair to be out in
the open to make sure that everyone knew the facts of the case.
That evening, a little after 7 p.m., about 100 people came and
congregated in the main meeting hall. Nang Samawn sat right nearby,
to one side of the sermon seat. After I had given the precepts and
delivered a sermon to the people, teaching them to meditate so that
they could develop merit and perfect their character, Mother Samawn
spoke up in a loud voice, "I don't want any of that. I want a child.
Please give me a child, Luang Phaw."
"All right," I told her, "I'll give you a child." I answered her
this way because I remembered a number of events in the scriptures. I
then said, as if in jest, "Set your mind on meditating well tonight.
I'm going to ask the gods and goddesses to bring you a child."
After she had finished meditating, she came and told me, "I feel
really content and relaxed. I've meditated many times before, but
it's never been like this."
"There you are," I told her. "You'll have your wish."
The next morning, I left Ratchaburi, taking the train as far as
Prajuab Khirikhan. Khun Thatsanawiphaag went along as my follower.
We spent the night in a cemetery near the station in Pranburi. The
next morning, Khun That went to buy our tickets, with 120 baht in his
pockets. This was right after the war, when they were using bank
notes printed in America. The 100 baht bill and the 20 baht bill
looked just alike. Khun That came back with the tickets, but without
the 100 baht bill. He had mistaken it for the 20 baht bill, and so
had given it to the ticket agent. He was all ready to return to the
station to ask for the money back, but I stopped him. "I'd be too
embarrassed to have you go," I said. He then got so upset that he was
going to go back home, so I had to console him.
The cemetery where we were staying was on a tall forested slope.
They had told us that no one could sleep there because the spirits
were fierce, but we spent the night without incident.
From there we took the train to Surat Thani and went to stay on the
slope of a tall hill near the train station. As night fell, people
came to talk with us. I got to meet two characters named Nai Phuang
and Nai Phaad. They came together, and Nai Phuang let me in on their
secret.
"My home is in Nakhorn Pathom province," he said. "I used to be a
big-time gangster, and killed a lot of people in my time. The last
person was an old grandmother who died on the spot. Someone had told
me that she kept 4,000 baht in cash under her pillow, so I snuck up to
her room and stabbed her in the neck. But when I looked under her
pillow, there was only 40 baht. From that day on, I felt so awful
that I decided to give up crime. But even so, I still feel jumpy
every time I hear a gunshot. Luang Phaw, could you help find me
something to protect me from bullets?"
I told him, "If you really have sworn off crime, I'll give you
something that'll make sure you don't die from a bullet."
He swore, "I've given it up for good," so I wrote down a //gatha//
for him to repeat over and over to himself.
The next day, he came back and told me that his younger brother,
along with a group of nine others, were in the process of fighting off
the police in one of the outlying districts. Some of the group the
police had already captured, but his brother was still on the loose.
He was afraid that his name might get dragged into the affair, so what
should he do? I told him to go straight to the police and lead them
to his brother. He did everything as I told him to, and a few days
later the entire group of bandits turned themselves in. Nai Phuang
was able to get his brother out on bail. Eventually, when the case
reached the courts, the entire group pleaded guilty. The court
sentenced them to prison but, since they had admitted their guilt, cut
their sentences in half.
I didn't feel very comfortable staying there in Surat because there
were always shady characters coming to see me. I was doing nothing
but good, but I was afraid that other people might start thinking I
was aiding and abetting criminals, so I left, heading for Thung Song
and then on to pay my respects to the Buddha's relics in Nakhorn Sri
Thammarat. At this point Khun That took his leave to return home to
Bangkok. He bought my ticket, got me on the train, and I then
traveled on alone.
That evening I reached the great chedi at Nakhorn Sri Thammarat and
stayed at the monastery connected with it. A number of people there
-- including a monk who was a friend of mine living at the monastery
-- were interested in meditation, so I stayed on, teaching meditation
for a while. I then left, heading for Songkhla province. Reaching
Haad Yai, I went to stay in Pak Kim cemetery, which was all overgrown
and very quiet. A few days later my friend, Phra MahaKaew, came
looking for me, and found me there in the cemetery. We stayed on for
a while, and then went out wandering by ourselves from township to
township.
* * *
That year I spent the rains at Wat Khuan Miid -- Knife Mountain
Monastery. I gave sermons and taught meditation to the monks, novices
and lay people practically every night. After the rains were over and
we had received the //kathina//, I headed back and stayed at Khuan
Jong mountain, by a small village near Rien Canal.
One day I started seeing people pouring past in huge numbers. This
went on for several days running, so I finally asked what was up.
They told me that they were going to see the giant snake that had
trapped a woman in its coils on Khuan Jong mountain. The word had
gotten around that a giant snake with a red hood had trapped a woman
in its coils at the very top of the mountain, and that until the
allotted time came it wouldn't let her go. On hearing this bizarre
story, people had become all excited and started coming out in huge
numbers to see, swarming all over the area near where we were staying.
But in Khuan Jong village itself, no one appeared to have heard the
story at all. The whole thing was ridiculous.
After we had stayed there for a while, we went on to stay at Baan
Thung Pha, Talaat Khlawng Ngae and Sadao district. At that time the
police chief in Sadao had been shot and killed in a skirmish with the
Chinese communist terrorists. While we were there, a lot of people
came to see us during the day, but as evening fell they hurried back
home, saying they were afraid the communists would attack. So I told
them, "I want you all to come for a sermon tonight. I promise
there'll be no attack." Just after nightfall -- at about 8 p.m. --
people came and filled the ordination hall of the temple where we were
staying, so I gave a sermon and taught them meditation.
A few days afterwards we returned to Pak Kim cemetery in Haad Yai.
This time a lot of Haad Yai people came out every night to receive the
precepts, listen to sermons and practice meditation.
From there we returned to Nakhorn Sri Thammarat, stopping off at a
meditation monastery in Rawn Phibun district, and then going on to
stay in Thung Song. Nai Sangwed, a clerk in the Education Office,
followed along as my student. We stayed at Tham Thalu (The Cave That
Goes All the Way Through) for a while, and then went on to Chumphorn.
From Chumphorn we caught the train to Phetburi. This was when I
learned that Somdet Mahawirawong had been sending letters after me,
asking me to return to Bangkok, so I went on to Ratchaburi and stayed
at Wat Prachumnari. Luang Att, the governor of Ratchaburi province,
and the district official of Ratchaburi City came looking for me,
asking me to return to Bangkok because the Somdet at Wat Borom wanted
to see me.
While I was staying at Wat Prachumnari, a monk at Khao Kaen Jan
(Sandalwood Mountain) was captured by the authorities. I learned that
four or five nuns from Baan Pong who were his followers wanted to come
see me, but didn't dare because of the uproar over the monk. Although
the story doesn't involve me, it's worth telling: It seems that the
monk had told the nuns that his legs hurt from sitting in meditation
and delivering sermons so much, so would they please massage his legs
-- and they actually started giving him massages. That's when the
uproar started. The authorities looked into the matter and discovered
that the monk had no identification papers, so they forced him to
disrobe.
During my stay at Ratchaburi, Mae Samawn came out to see me. "I'm
over two months pregnant," she said, and then went on, "I'd like to
dedicate the child to you right now, because it's your child, and not
my husband's." She seemed dead serious about what she was saying. I
didn't respond in any way, but I did feel surprised. She hadn't had a
child in 15 years, so how had it come about?
From there I returned to Bangkok and stayed at Wat Boromnivasa. I
happened to arrive just as the Somdet fell ill, so I helped look after
him.
* * * * * * * *
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