TL: GREENPEACE EXAMINER December 1985 SO: Greenpeace USA (GP) DT: December 1985 Keywords: greenpeace us periodicals digests gp / Antarctica's Unspoiled Wilderness Greenpeace Mounts the First People's Expedition Antarctica Special Flotilla to Moruroa Radwaste Vote Eco NOTES Whalers Down But Not Out Like the boy who cried wolf, the U.S. government has taken its legal case for whaling to the courts twice and lost. When the government appealed a third time, the courts refused to listen. In October, after reviewing the past two decisions, the nine- member Appellate Court of the District of Columbia denied the Commerce Department a new hearing. In the original decision, the D.C. Federal Court of Appeals ruled that Secretary of Commerce Malcolm Baldrige acted illegally by allowing the Japanese to ignore quotas on the killing of whales as set by the International Whaling Commission (IWC). The 1979 Packwood-Magnuson Amendment requires that the President halve fishing quotas in U.S. waters of any nation that violates an IWC decision. Japan first ran afoul of the law last October when it killed endangered sperm whales. At that time, the Commerce Department refused to impose sanctions in exchange for a vague promise from Japan to halt whaling by 1988. This violates an IWC-imposed moratorium on all whaling scheduled to begin in 1986. The Commerce Department may appeal to the Supreme Court, but legal experts doubt that the court will hear the case. The other recourse is to lobby Congress to appeal the Packwood-Magnuson Amendment. Across the seas, the Commerce Department's deal with Japan has encouraged other whaling nations to ignore the IWC moratorium. In a letter to IWC Secretary Dr. Ray Gambell, the Philippines stated it plans to continue commercial whaling until 1988, inferring that otherwise the Japanese would have an unfair commercial advantage. In the same vein, by taking advantage of a special IWC provision that allows members to issue whaling permits to their nationals for "scientific research." Iceland and Korea each plan to take 200 whales a year until 1988. And in October, Norway joined the chorus by declaring it would ignore IWC prohibitions on minke whaling in the north Atlantic. A Beluga In the Rhine In July, divers from the Greenpeace ship Beluga spent a day in the Rhine River blockading a ship headed out to dump toxic waste at a site near Rheinberg, West Germany. Greenpeace chemist Michael Braungart, meanwhile, spent his day meeting with the local environmental minister. Four days later, the dumpship turned back, its load of waste still on board. Within three weeks, the Rheinberg town council voted unanimously for an end to the dumping, and planned legal action against Bayer and Sachtleben, the companies that use the dump ship. The state environment ministry has since called on Sachtleben to produce a recycling plan within six months. So went Beluga's first direct action campaign. Dedicated in March, the ship has embarked on a survey of Europe's rivers, beginning with the Rhine. With its state-of-the-art water analysis equipment and crew of scientific experts, the Beluga is a most formidable addition to the Greenpeace fleet. The Rhine is a most formidable challenge for the Beluga. The river is one of Europe's most important water resources and one of its most polluted. Twenty percent of the continent's chemical industries are located along its banks. From these factories and Rhine municipalities come a constant flow of sewer sludge, PCBs, heavy metals and organic phosphates. Along North Sea estuaries i] The Netherlands, phosphate levels have increased fivefold since 1962, threatening both drinking and irrigation water. Since its first action, the Beluga has continued up the Rhine through West Germany and into Switzerland, confronting polluters at Mannheim, Flotzgrun and Karlsruhe, meeting with environmental authorities and conducting press conferences and public protests. Viel jluck, Beluga, good luck. Dumping: A Missed Opportunity Small nations put up a big fight, but the world's nuclear dumpers won out in September at the meeting of the London Dumping Convention. Under tremendous pressure from internationally powerful radioactive waste dumpers, the LDC decided not to risk a vote an amendment that would permanently ban dumping low-level radioactive waste at sea. Instead, the regulatory body extended indefinitely the dumping moratorium passed at its 1983 meeting. The division in the 25-nation LDC was clear. Throughout the six- day meeting, the United States, Britain and four other nations pushed hard for a resolution to end the moratorium, while the Pacific island nations of Nauru and Kiribati led the anti- dumping nations and lobbied for a permanent ban. Carving out a middle ground were those nations pushing only to extend the moratorium. Hundreds of thousands of citizens, as well as the European Parliament and the 13-nation South Pacific Forum, have repeatedly called for a permanent ban on waste dumping. But at the LDC meeting, dumpers remained obstinate. At one point, Britain threatened to pull out of the LDC. The U.S. prepared to mount procedural objections. In the end, Spain tabled a resolution calling for the extension of the moratorium and the LDC passed it, with only six votes opposed. Britain has since said it will ignore the vote and dump nuclear waste into the sea, if the results of a government study deem it "the best practicable environmental option." But who will sail the dump ships? The members of the British National Union of Seaman have said since July of 1983 that they won't sign on for radioactive waste cruises. A Time to Say 'No More' "You watch your kids get sick, your neighbors die, your home fall apart and finally one day you say 'no more' and you fight back." That's the last thing the owners of the Hunter Resources' toxic waste dump expected from the dump's neighbors, the 175 residents of Casmalia, California. In August, the people of that town joined with campaigners and crew from the Greenpeace ship Alcyon to successfully block trucks from dumping more waste at the dump. Hunter Resources' 250-acre toxic waste treatment facility accepts any quantity of industry's most hazardous wastes, including PCBs and dioxin. During just one month in 1984, it took in 63 million pounds of liquid and 9,000 cubic yards of solid waste. Last year, a nauseating and sickly sweet chemical odour from the dump swept into Casmalia, a quiet, rural town deep in the foothills of California's central coast. Since then, the noxious odour has brought an epidemic of the "Casmalia flu" (upper respiratory problems, migraine, sore throat and liver damage, among other symptoms) and is a suspect in the deaths of seven Casmalia residents. A quarter of the town's residents have left, local businesses and the town school are forced to close from time to time because of fumes from the dump. Following the August blockade, California physicians, legislators and regulators have joined the residents in calling for the facility to be closed. But they must fight opposition; the dump brings in $40 million a year, 10 percent of which goes to the county. While the fate of the dump is uncertain, one thing is clear - this small town is another graphic example to the world of the very real dangers of industry's needlessly created, poorly managed toxic wastes. ANTARCTICA We're going to Antarctica. From small beginnings - a 1982 meeting in New Zealand, contacts with environmentalists in Washington, a demonstration outside a Treaty meeting - has emerged an Antarctic expedition, the largest and longest-lasting direct action Greenpeace has ever launched. Its goal to prevent Antarctica's destruction. In late November, the Greenpeace will sail from Sydney. On its arrival in Antarctica, the crew will build the first permanent, non-governmental Antarctic settlement. The Greenpeace expedition team that remains there when the ship leaves in March will spend at least a year documenting biological data and monitoring activities at national bases. Antarctica is the earth's last true wilderness. As such it serves as a measure of humanity's environmental consciousness. If the people of the earth can spare Antarctica the degradation we have inflicted on the rest of the planet, we will have set a revolutionary example of human behaviour. From that beginning we can build a new way of looking at the world, and so, through saving Antarctica, save ourselves. A Sanctuary BY JIM BARNES Antarctica. A vast, beautiful, ice covered wilderness nestled at the bottom of the world, one tenth of the earth's surface, surrounded by seas teeming with life. Perhaps the last region of earth where tens of millions of whales, seals, penguins and sea birds can breed, feed and migrate according to the natural order of life. Antarctica's natural order is now threatened. Behind closed doors, the 18 nations that control this pristine wilderness under the Antarctic Treaty are negotiating an agreement that for the first time will allow them to extract oil and minerals from Antarctica. Though drilling will not start in this decade - the global demand for oil is not high enough to justify large investment - France, Japan, West Germany, Great Britain and the United States are openly conducting sophisticated seismic surveys that some claim have already produced evidence of oil deposits. Does the world "need" Antarctica's oil? Taking into account the dangers to the world eco-system from the "greenhouse effect" and acid rain, it is apparent that what we need is the discipline to cut down on our use of fossil fuels. Antarctica has more important things to offer: astounding landscapes and mountains, secret valleys, pristine fresh-water ponds and ancient beds of moss and lichens. We need to protect Antarctica's role in controlling global weather and climate, and the nutrients that its rich seas provide to the world's oceans and human beings. We need to preserve Antarctica for the secrets it holds of the earth's past, and for its capabilities as a monitoring zone for how we are-collectively-poisoning the earth. But the importance of Antarctica goes even beyond its value as a pristine ecological laboratory or global bread-basket. Those who drafted the Antarctic Treaty laid the legal and moral framework for a revolutionary idea that sovereign governments can cooperatively manage and preserve a continent. With that vision in mind, they removed Antarctica from the arms race: nuclear weapons tests, conventional armaments and the disposal of radioactive waste are prohibited on the continent. Now the spectre of development threatens to destroy the idea of Antarctica as a sanctuary, and with it a unique and exemplary vision of international cooperation. No nation owns Antarctica; all must share responsibility for its preservation and wise use. As a first step, the continent should be formally protected as a World Park or Preserve-with mining and drilling forbidden. In 1975, that was the course staked out by New Zealand, a signatory to the Antarctic Treaty, but more powerful Treaty nations crushed the plan. Antarctica reflects - like a "clear mirror," one friend terms it - the pure vibrancy of nature, of DNA working out its fate and ours in a sinuously resilient dance through time. The willingness to see where that dance leads, to peer into the future and examine the intertwined implications of our present and past actions is absolutely essential. The ancients would fall to their knees in thanks to the rain. We blithely turn it to vinegar. In Antarctica, there is time to change; we have a choice, and a responsibility. - James N. Barnes is an international environmental lawyer, Director of the Antarctica Project in Washington, D. C., counsel to the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition (ASOC) and a member of the Greenpeace USA Board of Directors. He is the author of "Let's Save Antarctica, " a citizen's handbook published in cooperation with photographer Eliot Porter. The Making of An Expedition BY ELYSE CHILAND Andrew Hill is sitting on a couch, pondering BBC television news. He rises and turns down the volume of the T.V. to observe and partially lament that "people just don't know what Antarctica is." Andy has some idea, he spent 1982 and '83 working in the British Antarctic territory as station meteorologist at Halley Bay. At the end of 1984, he accepted the job of Greenpeace Antarctic expedition coordinator. Now, sitting back down on the couch, he continues. "Antarctica is not just ice and penguins. It's a beautiful continent with mountains, lakes, volcanoes and two- and three-thousand-foot cliffs coming straight out of the sea. I love it. It's the most impressive area in the world." From an armchair, Gerry Johnson agrees. Voyaging to Antarctica with the Greenpeace will begin Gerry's eighth trip there in 11 years - this time he'll be leader of the Greenpeace base camp in the southern Ross Sea area. A mechanic, he is one of four people - along with a scientist, a doctor and a radio operator - who will staff the camp through the winter, remaining in Antarctica for at least a year in an area where the midwinter temperature averages -18 degrees Fahrenheit. "Four is about the minimum number of people you can overwinter," says Andy. "The mere act of having to look after yourselves - hauling 45-gallon fuel drums, working on the buildings and the antennas, the lot - requires a great deal of work, and you need enough people to do it." One hundred people over winter at the largest Antarctic base, the United States' McMurdo Station. "Overwintering can get quite lonely," Andy says. "To an extent, you have to learn to turn inside yourself. You read a lot of books, and there's an awful lot of photography. Or you have impromptu parties, you dress up, you cut your hair off, all sorts of things." Invasion of The Humans BY ANDRE CAROTHERS The lure of riches first compelled explorers to search for the mythic Southern Continent. In the 1770s, the French explorer Yves-Joseph de Kerguelen-Tremarc promised a treasure of "wood, minerals, diamonds, rubies and precious stones and marble" to financiers of his second expedition. "South France," as he called Antarctica, "will furnish marvellous physical and moral spectacles." A scant two years later, the myth of a paradise at the South Pole was shattered. "I make bold to declare," wrote Captain James Cook after completing the first successful circumnavigation of the continent, "that the world will derive no benefit from it." His prediction, albeit limited to commercial benefit, has remained true, at least for the continent itself. Antarctica's productive surrounding waters, however, have been the scene of unrestrained slaughter. In the early 19th century, hunters almost exterminated seals from the surrounding islands, and the 20th century saw the whaling industry drive blue, humpback and southern right whales to the brink of extinction. Today, uncontrolled fishing has wiped out some of the region's formerly abundant schools of fin fish. But the ice-covered continent remained inaccessible and commercially useless. Two hundred years later, we have come full circle. Nations are once again eyeing the continent itself for commercial exploitation. Japan, France, Great Britain, West Germany and the United States are beginning to search the Antarctic continental shelf for oil. A Texas consulting firm's analysis of potential Antarctic oil reserves is being snapped up at $10,000 per copy. The Soviet Union and South Africa are prospecting for deposits of platinum. Antarctica is currently managed by eighteen countries under the 1959 Antarctic Treaty. These nations, committed under their treaty to act in the interest of Antarctica and the world, are holding secret meetings on the mining of the continent's presumed mineral deposits. The Antarctic gold rush promised by the explorer Kuergelen, with all its political and environmental implications, is on. Claimstaking For two centuries after its discovery, Antarctica remained free of conflicts over territory. Seven nations have claimed pieces of the continent and several of these claims overlap. But clashes have been avoided, essentially because there was little to have and plenty for all. After World War II, Antarctica came under more intense international scrutiny. In 1946, the United States launched "Operation Highjump," under Admiral Richard Byrd. Employing 13 ships and over 4,000 persons, it was by far the largest Antarctic expedition. Operation High jump's secret agenda was to extend U.S. influence over the largest possible area. The Soviet Union also took an interest in the southern continent and scuttled a 1948 United States plan to put the continent under United Nations administration by declaring Moscow would not recognize the arrangement because it was made without Soviet participation. Political Science Diplomats realized in the mid '50s that the time had come to deal with the question of Antarctica. At the same time, scientists issued a global call for cooperative research as the best way to study such subjects as magnetism weather patterns and glaciology. This confluence of interests resulted in two international landmarks: the 1957-58 International Geophysical Year (IGY) and the Antarctic Treaty. During the 16 months that comprised the IGY, 5,000 scientists from 40 nations devoted themselves to Antarctic research; 60 research stations sponsored by 12 nations endured the harsh polar winter of 1957. The IGY was hailed as a unique example of international cooperation. Capitalizing on this atmosphere of goodwill and cooperation, the United States invited the 12 nations that participated in the IGY to come to Washington and negotiate an Antarctic Treaty. In the interest of gaining con census on the document, negotiators specifically avoided comprehensive discussion of the overlapping claims and possibilities of resource exploitation. Nevertheless, it took more than 60 meetings over 18 months to hammer out the Treaty. The time was well spent; what emerged is an agreement virtually unprecedented in international relations. The Antarctic Treaty specifically prohibits "any measures of a military nature, such as the establishment of military bases and fortifications, the carrying out of military maneuvers, as well as the testing of any type of weapons." Nuclear explosions and the disposal of radioactive waste are also prohibited. Finally, all parties have the right to travel anywhere on the continent and inspect all other nations' research bases. The conduct of these 12 nations in drafting the agreement is an inspiring example of international cooperation. Unfortunately, this collaboration has not extended to protecting the environment. Not only have the treaty nations failed in all substantive attempts to adequately protect the region's wildlife, they are now negotiating an agreement to explore and eventually exploit the region's presumed oil and mineral deposits. Antarctica represents a fragile balance, both politically and ecologically. Right now, the disputed questions of Antarctic territorial claims and mineral deposits are reemerging in the context of a resource-hungry world. If this generation of nations does not restrain itself, Antarctica's political - and environmental - integrity will suffer. In 1983, Gerry and Andy over wintered together in northern Antarctica at Halley Bay. Halley, on the eastern Weddell Sea, is built on a floating ice shelf. What's more, it's under ice. "Ice accumulation buries the base," Gerry says. "So about every eight or ten years, you've got to rebuild. From outside of Halley, all you actually see are the shafts of the walls sticking out of the ice." The room feels cooler. As I study the gas heater's blue burn, Andy assures me that Antarctic bases stay warm even during storms. "You make sure there's enough fuel stored inside the station to power the generators for four to five days - that's usually long enough to sit out a serious blow. But whatever the conditions, you can always refuel." How? You don't send someone outside in the middle of an Antarctic storm. "Of course you do," Andy says. "If you need the fuel you do it." I reach for a small wool blanket on the couch, and Gerry and Andy smile. "Sure it gets cold," Andy says. "Very cold. But you're there, and that's it." The press conference to announce the Greenpeace expedition is scheduled to begin in one hour, at 10 a.m. in London, here on the Greenpeace. Tea and coffee flow from the galley as two dozen crew members, Greenpeace directors and campaigners stuff press kits, hang banners and align rows of chairs on the top deck. In the sunshine on the wharf along the ship's port side, a determined photographer directs Antarctic Campaign Coordinator Roger Wilson and Greenpeace Captain Jon Castle. The two stand stiffly, with Andy and Gerry squinting beside them - a tableau with ship's prow as backdrop, a classic pose in the manner of historic expeditions. At 9:55 the wind picks up ash from a pile of burned rubbish on the dock and blows it onto the deck. The reporters, under siege, give most of their attention to the swirling soot, until Roger's words win out. "Antarctica is the last true wilderness, and we cannot watch it be destroyed. For the first time in Green peace's history, we have the chance to act before a major ecological disaster occurs. On behalf of future generations, Greenpeace will set up its own base and declare Antarctica a World Park for all the people of the earth." He explains, together with Greenpeace Director Peter Wilkinson, that the expedition embraces the goals of Green peace's wildlife, toxics and disarmament campaigns. They note that the research base will make Greenpeace the first nongovernmental organization to fulfil the requirements for becoming a Consultative Party to the Antarctic Treaty. And they stress that a pre-requisite of both expedition and camp is to create no significant environmental impact. On television that evening, a one-minute broadcast uses a film clip of Antarctica and quotes from the press conference. It's the first news coverage of a small group of people who are, as Wilkinson has phrased it, "doing their best to focus the eyes of the world on the fate of the last wilderness." Behind three gulls hovering outside the bridge, a deep pink sun sets over the Greenpeace as it rolls through the sea toward Amsterdam. Below, I review notes I've taken on the equipment needed to build the base and house four people: a tractor (a huge Muskeg with a winch, to haul supplies over ice and snow), sledges (two for cargo, one for field travel), loop stitch wool socks (don't hold moisture well; no blisters even if worn for days), quilts (not sleeping bags; feather down in bags takes forever to dry), two types of boots, 87 pairs of underwear. . . When the Greenpeace arrives in southern Antarctica, the expedition team will work 12-hour shifts, 24 hours a day, to build the camp, parts of which will have been loaded onto the ship in prefabricated units. Working in an area of Antarctica where the snow melts during the January summer, Greenpeace should complete the base camp in three weeks. The core of the base will be two buildings made from insulated plywood panels and enclosed in an outer shell to protect them and minimize wind noise. The smaller building will hold the camp's generators, while the larger will house work facilities, a communal cooking and living area and four separate sleeping chambers-the expedition planners believe it is important for each overwinterer to have a place to be alone. The sleeping quarters will be similar to a ship's accommodations: bunks with storage space underneath. Four pyramid tents will be stored at the base for emergency shelter. During the year the overwinterers spend at the station mail will arrive regularly - once. Research will endure year round, however, as biologist/overwinterer Ralph John photographs, counts, weighs and monitors various species of Antarctic fish. His data, which will provide clues to species composition, the fishes' diet and their daily and seasonal biological cycles, will be available to aid scientists working for the conservation of marine resources in the Southern Ocean. In short, there's a lot to do. The Greenpeace docked in Amsterdam this morning. This afternoon, three people started stripping two aft cabins to make room for base camp cargo. In the days ahead, the ship will be dry-docked and its hull and machinery tested. In the weeks ahead, it will be transformed into a polar expedition ship. Ice protection fins will be fitted on the stern in front of the propeller, the bow and foreship will be ice-strengthened, a look-out shelter and hydraulic marine crane installed. Decks will be extended, cabins converted, shelves built, ice-adapted inflatables loaded, satellite and weather-monitoring machines installed. There's more, too. A lot of work and a lot of money, and not much time at all. I plan to leave the Greenpeace in a couple of days - that is, if I am well enough to do so. It seems I've contracted Antarctic Fever, the worsening symptoms of which include a severe desire to see Antarctica firsthand, recurrent fantasies of voyaging on the historic "people's expedition" and a horror for the idea of returning to life behind a word-processor. Ship's doctor Laura Mitrani prescribes a dose of clear thinking: the expedition will succeed only if ship's cooks cook and engineers keep the engines running; while campaigners plan direct actions, accountants balance the books. A Greenpeace magazine editor, meanwhile, better get the word out. The words are here, the prescription worked. Bon voyage, Greenpeace, and good luck to the expedition. In the name of my grandchildren, give my love to Antarctica. The Film Award-winning film-maker Axel Engstfeld will produce a feature- length film about the Greenpeace Antarctic expedition. The Book Edwin Mickleburgh, who has made several Antarctica, will document the expedition in written form. A Look at The Land of Extremes With elegant plumage and haughty demeanour, the emperor is the aristocrat of penguins. It is also one of earth's largest birds, weighing up to 90 pounds and standing four feet tall. Emperors breed on the Antarctic sea ice during the dark and desolate winter, when temperatures plummet to the coldest on the planet and blizzards shriek at 200 miles an hour. Several weeks later, the female lays the egg and leaves it with her mate. The male incubates the egg under his belly through the long Antarctic winter - without leaving it for so much as a meal - until the female returns from a two-month ocean feast. Upon her return, the female must pick out her mate in a rookery of squawking penguins that may number in the thousands. Fortunately, the couple have a distinctive song, and the female usually finds her husband guarding their fuzzy gray chick. The Emperors' young feed hungrily through the spring, and by the next winter are self-sufficient. "For all its grim and hostile character, Antarctica, with its pristine snows, its unbelievable clarity of air and its blue, cascading ice, is sublimely beautiful. The atmosphere is so clear that one is easily deceived by distances; mountains that seem 100 kilometers away may be 400.... The colors of objects are not like those in other parts of the world." Such is photographer Eliot Porter's testimonial to Antarctica, the land of extremes. Here, on the world's fifth-largest continent, a Soviet research team recorded an evening when the mercury plummeted to 127 degrees F. below zero. Here 19th century explorer Douglas Mawson endured a winter during which the wind blew over 60 miles an hour, on average, for nearly 60 days. Here scientists study mysterious dry valleys that are the only places on earth approximating what it may be like on Mars. Here a permanent ice mantle up to three miles thick holds 70 percent of earth's water and covers 98 percent of the continent. Here, nature must be innovative to survive. Species of algae and lichen have taken up residence in the pores of rocks; a stone split in half will reveal concentric circles of rainbow hues - different species of microscopic plants. Hundreds of species of fungi, moss and microscopic animals have adapted to this continent punctuated by mountain ranges and lunar valleys, where the sun shines half the year and darkness descends the other half. But the forbidding climate sets clear biological limits; Antarctica's largest mobile land resident is an insect - a wingless midge 6 millimeters (1/4 inch) long. The sea surrounding the continent is the world's most fertile ocean - comprising 10 percent of the earth's ocean, it rivals the other 90 percent in productivity. At the base of the Southern Ocean ecosystem are microscopic plants. In the almost constant daylight of the six-month summer, these phytoplankton grow in enormous blooms of life that, along with multi celled plankton, provide food for Southern Ocean marine life. A blue-green fire, stretching over a half-mile of ocean surface, glows in the night-time Antarctic waters. This is a swarm of krill generating the chemical light called bioluminescence. Gathered in massive swarms of as much as 10 million metric tons, the three-inch, shrimp-like krill are a "foundation species," providing a major source of high-protein food for many Southern Ocean denizens: whales, seals, fish, squid and sea birds. Baleen whales, such as the blue, fin, humpback and southern right, survive mainly on krill; by mouthfuls that can weigh as much as a ton, they consume some 50 million tons of krill a year. Biologists estimate the total krill stock to be somewhere between 200 and 600 million metric tons. Life thrives in one other Antarctic environment - the thin margin where water, land and sun meet to allow the survival of penguins, seals and sea birds. Because shifting ice shelves render shoreline living precarious, the most accessible and productive of these coastal ecosystems exists on a stretch of Antarctic coast, barely 500 miles long, that remains ice-free. There - in the same areas appropriated by most of the continent's few human residents - live leopard, Weddell, crab eater and Ross seals. These seals live largely in the water, while two more species, elephant and fur seals, colonize on land. Over 100 million birds of seven major families breed in Antarctica each year, including four of earth's 17 species of penguin. Antarctica, enormous and forbidding, is also vulnerable - to pollution, overfishing, even simple contact with things not part of its delicately balanced ecosystem. In the 19th century, humans almost eliminated some species of seals from Antarctica's surrounding islands. In the last decade, fishing fleets have commercially wiped out several species of fin fish. (See Page 14.) Now these fleets are eyeing krill. At the same time, several Antarctic Treaty nations are testing the ocean's floor, hoping to find evidence of huge oil deposits underneath. We don't know what effects these drastic events might have on Antarctic biology, now or in the future. A marine ecosystem is, in the words of one marine biologist, "intermeshed in a very important way. It's like a rug with a very intricate pattern." One piece cannot be affected without threatening the stability of the entire system - particularly in Antarctica, where one species, krill, plays such a crucial role. A massive reduction in krill, for example, might starve the world's few remaining whales. And in the continent's intense cold, biological processes - such as the degradation of oil and other contaminants and the regrowth of depleted species - take an especially long time. You, all of us, have a responsibility to preserve Antarctica and to cherish its place in the heritage of future generations. It's a responsibility that requires taking action. Below are suggestions as to how you can begin. You Can Help Save Antarctica Urge your government to work for Antarctica to be declared a World Park or Preserve, protecting the region from all oil and mineral activities. Circulate the Antarctic Declaration petition, available from Greenpeace offices around the world, to schools, churches, societies, clubs and other organizations and send them to your Legislature or Parliament. Urge sympathetic politicians and lawmakers to hold inquiries or hearings on your government's position on Antarctica. Work with television, radio, newspapers and magazines to make public the imminent threat of oil and mineral exploitation and full-scale commercial fishing in Antarctica. Write letters to newspapers, and articles for magazines. Join Greenpeace. Become a friend of Antarctica. Pointe Geologie: Destruction Under Cover In late 1982, without conducting a formal environmental assessment or officially informing fellow Antarctic Treaty nations, France began blasting an airfield out of the rocky peninsula known as Pointe Geologie, site of one of the few mainland homes of Antarctica's rarest penguin, the Emperor. The partially completed airfield cuts across the route the Emperor penguins use to move from the ocean to their nesting and breeding grounds. In the course of its construction, workers have smashed eggs, destroyed nesting sites and blown up Adelie penguins. The project violates several of the major provisions of the agreements governing Antarctic activities. Under Article VI of the Agreed Measures on the Conservation of Antarctic Flora and Fauna, Treaty nations are prohibited, except under very limited circumstances, from "killing, wounding, capturing or molesting" any native mammal. Article VII prohibits any activities that constitute "harmful interference" to animal populations. Of the 10 bird species that nest in Antarctica, eight nest at Pointe Geologie. In January of 1984 at a meeting of Treaty nations, Greenpeace delivered photographs of construction in progress at Pointe Geologie. Among other activities, the photos showed dynamite explosions. At first, the pictures were met with disbelief. "These photos could have been taken anywhere," said one delegate. When France admitted that the airstrip project did indeed exist, the government declared that the Scientific Committee on Antarctic Research had approved the project and a 1983 U.S. inspection of the site found everything in order. In fact, the committee never formally considered any kind of proposal or environmental impact statement, and the U. S . "inspection" consisted of a short visit to France's research station at Dumont D'Urville, the team never saw the airfield site. Following the January meeting, French authorities ordered work on the airfield halted and convened an international "Committee of Experts" -eight scientists - to review the environmental impact statement prepared for the project by the Expeditions Polaires Francaises. The committee's assessment which the embarrassed French government at first refused to release, was that the E.P.F.'s study was unacceptable; the committee outlined the significant damage the project had caused and would cause and demanded a new evaluation. Under Article X of the Agreed Measures, the Treaty nations pledge "to exert appropriate efforts . . . to the end that no one engages in any activity in the Treaty area contrary to the principles and purposes of the Agreed Measures." In fact, none of the Treaty nations has acted to make the French accountable for their actions. It is precisely this reluctance to monitor their own activities and enforce their own rules that calls into question the Antarctic Treaty nations' ability to administer the continent competently. It also underscores the need for an in- dependent Antarctic Environmental Protection Agency, with inspection and enforcement powers, to oversee and regulate activities in the sensitive polar environment. Bye-Bye to N. Rossii Notothenia Rossii, a species of Antarctic cod, used to be abundant in Antarctic waters. Today, due largely to overfishing by the Soviet Union and eastern bloc countries, the N. Rossii population is a fraction of what it was 15 years ago. Other species are suffering similar, if not quite so drastic, fates. The decline of Southern Ocean fin fish stocks has followed the pattern typical of global resource management: exploitation continues unregulated until the damage, sometimes irreversible, is done. The Convention on the Conservation of Antarctic Marine and Living Resources (CCAMLR) (see Page 15) came into force three years ago to prevent just such mismanagement. Unfortunately for N. Rossii, CCAMLR has failed. The Commission did not even begin to discuss the implementation of a management regime until its third meeting last year. The Soviet Union and its allies argue each year that protection regimes cannot be implemented without more data, and then fail to provide their fishing logs. At the 1984 CCAMLR meeting, the delegates agreed to a token protection regime already adhered to voluntarily by the fishing nations most responsible for the over-exploitation. In 1985, the Soviet Union and eastern European countries once again blocked con census on effective protection measures. As goes N. Rossii, so goes CCAMLR - the futures of both appear bleak at the moment. While the Treaty nations negotiate, it's business as usual in the Southern Ocean: the fishing fleets continue, with few constraints, to wipe out the region's finfish. Oil on Ice "I am very certain that someday we will go down there and give it a go," says a consultant for oil companies contemplating the Antarctic. If there is to be minerals development in Antarctica, there will also be oil spills. Accidents that dump large quantities of oil in the ocean are devastating anywhere. In the Southern Ocean, where biological processes are slowed and the ecosystem is remarkably interwoven and uniquely dependent on the health of krill, the effects of a major spill could be catastrophic. An oil spill in the freezing Antarctic waters could be a biological hazard for years. Large quantities of oil could be trapped in ice, to be distributed and released during thaws over subsequent summers. A storm would soak and kill penguin and sea birds with oil; clean-up activities would scatter and destroy rookeries. Burning, the preferred technique for cleaning-up oil, is only effective immediately after a spill. The notoriously stormy Antarctic weather would delay clean-up and disperse oil slicks. And in ice-clogged waters, oil is difficult to ignite. Oil kills. Crude oil is not a single substance but a complex mixture of chemicals, some deadly poisons. Even minute amounts can collect in the tissues of krill and move in ever stronger concentrations up the food chain. Other negative effects-on the refractive quality of Antarctica's ice, on microorganisms that feed under the ice (where oil would collect), and on the consequent implications for the entire ecosystem - are unknown. Hollow Words Since the Antarctic Treaty came into force in 1960, the Consultative Parties have met formally 12 times. At these meetings the delegates have reached consensus on some 150 recommendations, including such questions as the designation of historical sites, the mechanics of information exchange and improvements in telecommunications. They have also concluded two far-reaching agreements on the protection of Antarctic wildlife: the Convention on the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources (CCAMLR) and the Agreed Measures for the Protection of Antarctic Fauna and Flora. On paper, the Agreed Measures and CCAMLR are very progressive. CCAMLR demands that when assessing environmental impact, studies address "the ecosystem as a whole." Impact statements must evaluate the effects of a contemplated action on all interrelated wildlife. CCAMLR also demands the "restoration of depleted populations" of harvested species. The Agreed Measures require that no animal be killed, harassed or captured without a permit issued under strict guidelines. In practice, however, the words lose much of their meaning. CCAMLR has been criticized as "a triumph of calculated ambiguity." None of the requirements are binding; a Treaty nation can simply choose not to comply, and there are no enforcement mechanisms. Moreover, con census decision-making means that protection measures can only be as strong as the most recalcitrant member wants them to be. Finally, CCAMLR meetings are closed to all non-governmental bodies. At CCAMLR headquarters in Hobart, Australia, delegates met last September to discuss questions vital to the health of the Antarctic ecosystem: protection of declining fin fish stocks possible limits on krill catches, the use of pelagic drift nets and the need for adequate exchange of fisheries data. As was expected, they made little substantial progress. There is no question of the seriousness of these problems, especially the drastic decline of certain species of fin fish. What is in doubt is the ability of CCAMLR, and the Antarctic Treaty regime, to respond to these crises. Sir Peter Scott: A Lifetime Of Natural History Sir Peter Markham Scott oversees the fruits of his years of environmental work - and his beloved ducks, geese and swans - from a cosy and crowded office/living room at the Wildfowl Trust bird refuge in rural Slimbridge, Great Britain. One of his great loves and many talents is wildlife illustration, particularly of waterfowl; hanging from the room's walls and perched on easels are water colors, and in the sketchbooks that line the shelves there are hundreds more. An enormous picture window frames the main lake of the Wildfowl Trust, one of seven such protected areas established by Sir Peter throughout the United Kingdom. Son of famed Antarctic explorer Sir Robert Scott, who died on his return from the South Pole in 1912, Sir Peter began working in conservation in the 1930s, established the Wildfowl Trust in 19~6 and helped found the World Wildlife Fund in 1961. An early leader of efforts to save whales, he also champions the cause of Antarctica. He has written 15 books and illustrated 15 more. His latest, volume II of Travel Diaries of a Naturalist was just published in Great Britain. After years of study of whales, fish and birds, why has Antarctica become so important to you? I was brought up with the story of my father's expedition. I was 1-and-a half years old when he went away, and the news of his death didn't come until I was about 2-and-a-half or 3 years old. It's curious to some people that I didn't go to Antarctica in my early years, but I was determined to make my career on my own - not trade on my father's reputation. So I thought that I would become a naturalist, which is one of the things he wanted me to be. He wrote this in a letter, to my mother, found in the tent where he died. "Make the boy interested in natural history," he wrote. "It's better than games, and they teach it at some schools." My mother was quite clever at making me a naturalist, putting me in the way of naturalists who were willing to spend time helping me to get interested in natural history. So I can't remember a time when I wasn't interested in natural history. But I didn't become really interested in Antarctica until very much later. In 1966, I was invited by the admiral commanding (U.S. Operation) Deep Freeze to fly down to the South Pole. I had come to think it was sort of an empty vanity to say I wouldn't go anywhere near the Antarctic for fear of trading on my father's reputation, so I accepted this very kind invitation. I have been there four times since. The most memorable trip was in 1971. I had my wife and daughter with me that time, and we went to all my father's huts. It was very exciting to be able to take my then 18-year-old daughter into her grandfather's hut. Was it the five voyages that revealed to you the danger Antarctica faces? Oh yes, I think I realized that straightaway, particularly on that first trip. The Deep Freeze operation paid practically no regard whatever to environmental values. They were throwing their trash out onto ice floes and watching it float away. They even had a nuclear power station-Nukie-poo, they called it-at the base of Observation Hill. It has since been dismantled. It seems that humans cannot resist uncharted land. Our instinct is to develop, to see what can be produced from nature. We must put our mark everywhere.... Well, this was certainly the old concept. I wonder if it isn't getting totally outdated now. A lot of people are now coming to believe that people shouldn't always leave their mark. "Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints," as the saying goes. Is that what you think should be told to those who want to explore for oil and minerals in Antarctica? I'll tell you what I think: I think that we ought, if we are responsible people, to leave Antarctica alone - at any rate for the foreseeable future. Nothing should happen in Antarctica beyond what is being done at present - which is, at least in theory, pure research. I am saying Antarctica should be a World Park, untouchable; nobody should be allowed to exploit it. They can explore it, yes, but they must not exploit it. What about the argument that science can produce "safe" exploitation? That's really the crux of it isn't it? I don't believe that any exploitation is really "safe" in the Antarctica context. People continue to make such terrible mistakes. And I don't believe that the Antarctic continent belongs to the nations that signed the Antarctic Treaty any more than it belongs to you or me. I know that very few people will agree with that idea, but I believe that somebody's got to say it. You've worked on the International Whaling Commission for many years. Has your experience working to safeguard whales given you a lot of insights on efforts to save Antarctica? One thing I did learn: if you have a cause that you want to advance, you start pulling toward what you want to do. Hard. Other people are pulling the other way, and if you pull harder than they do, the middle position comes over towards you. The only thing you mustn't do is pull so damn hard that you bust the string. Because if you do that, it rebounds the other way and you're discredited. But you must pull, still. And a few people have got to pull hardest of all, and go beyond what they know they will achieve. Your father had a great influence on your life, simply by writing a letter. What advice would you give young people today? Well, at what level do you want that sort of advice? I mean you can get so pompous and sententious if your aren't careful. I have seven grandchildren. I arranged for a plate to be made with one of my drawings on it, to give to my grandson Peter at his christening. One half of the plate needed some lettering so I put on it something which is very pompous and tiresome, really. I put this slogan: "Try always to be kind." I think that you can't succeed in being kind all the time, but you should try. It has some disadvantages - sometimes you get soft when you oughtn't to be but it's not a bad precept. It means you have to think of other people - what is kind to them and what is unkind. I'm not really able to do it myself but I think it's a worthwhile principle to bring a kid up on. I'm hoping my grandson will try always to be kind. So that's at the top level. What sort of advice do I give to people when they are starting off? First of all I would tell them they can do a lot worse than becoming, as I did, a naturalist. If one studies nature and becomes involved in it, is there a certain kindness that might come of that? Yes, I think the two go together quite well. Being a naturalist means taking an interest in wildlife and natural environments and getting excited about the little things in the world, as well as the big things. You find yourself caring very much about conservation, and thinking that somehow or another you've got to persuade people to become more conscious of conservation than they presently are. Do you think this environmental consciousness is emerging and growing in the world? Oh, yes. I have spent my life trying to make people interested in the natural world - trying to educate people. I'd go out and shoot myself if I wasn't sure it was growing. Because I would have failed. Well, maybe I wouldn't shoot myself. I'd just go out and get drunk. Prospecting In Secrecy When the Antarctic Treaty was being negotiated in 1959, discussion of possible minerals exploitation was taboo. The delegates skirted questions of whether oil or valuable minerals might be there and if so, whether they should be extracted and who should profit. But things have changed. Since 1977 the nations that control the continent have convened seven closed meetings in different cities around the world to work out a regime for exploitating the Antarctic. Despite the treaty nations' efforts to minimize publicity, these secret deliberations have attracted the attention of the world. But inside information is hard to get. Twice, after the 1983 meeting and prior to a United Nations debate on Antarctica in 1984, Greenpeace obtained and distributed copies of the draft minerals treaties drawn up in these secret meetings. Before this, the rest of the world had little knowledge of the treaty nations' plans. The proposals considered thus far in these meetings have been criticized as highly inadequate to the job of comprehensively protecting the fragile Antarctic environment. Nowhere in the draft agreements obtained by Greenpeace is there any mention of a mandatory environmental oversight mechanism and nowhere are there any provisions for international enforcement of rules and regulations. The draft treaty would allow for the granting of exploration and exploitation contracts by majority vote of a 10-nation regulatory committee. Thus, the future of vast tracts of acutely sensitive wilderness could be decided by as few as six nations. Pressures could be overwhelming for a vote that's agreeable to powerful national business interests. A gold rush mentality pervades discussions of Antarctica's future. The treaty nations' insistence on secrecy and refusal to discuss alternatives to exploitation are alienating the international community. Benign scientific research is suffering as national priorities are redirected to the minerals question. "We are geopolitical pawns," one Antarctic ecologist told Life magazine. And the negotiations have unfortunately resurrected the divisive debate long set aside for the sake of cooperation- the rights of those seven countries who claim Antarctic territory. Greenpeace supports the creation of a protection regime which would prohibit all minerals activities. "Let's draw the line here," says Jim Barnes, international environmental lawyer. "Antarctica is a scientific treasure chest where wildlife has a chance to be in a largely natural state, something that could be unique in the world by the next century." ACTION ACCESS The Bloody Hunt In the Faroes The Faroes, a protectorate of Denmark, are 18 tightly grouped islands lying between Iceland and Scotland in the North Atlantic. For more than 400 years, pilot whales have been driven ashore and killed. The practice began as a means of providing food to the Faroese people. Today, however, an expanded fishing industry provides the islands with both an alternative food source and one of the highest standards of living in Europe. Nevertheless, Faroese fishermen have greatly increased the annual hunt. In the past, they killed an average of 850 pilot whales per year; now, radio equipment and high-powered motorboats have upped the kill to nearly 3,000. This summer, Greenpeace voyaged to the Faroes to voice our concerns to Prime Minister Atli P. Dam. Greenpeace asked that the hunt be phased out and, in the interim, the Faroese government more closely regulate the hunt, ban it from areas other than beaches, limit the kill to the historical average of 850 and forbid the use of gaffs and hooks. Please write and urge the Prime Minister to reduce the high kill level and implement humane methods as a first step toward a phase out. Prime Minister Atli P. Dam Landesstryi Foroya Tinganes, Torshavn Faroe Islands (via Copenhagen, Denmark) Look What's In Store for You! Green peace runs direct action campaigns all over the world. In the U.S.A., it also runs four retail stores. When you give a gift purchased from Greenpeace, you also give money to our efforts to save the environment. Unique and creative gifts can be found at: 612 Duval Street Key West, FL 33040 (305) 296-4442 Thorne's Market 150 Main Street Northampton, MA 01060 Greenpeace Cart Boston's Downtown Crossing Washington Street (across from Filene's) Greenpeace Store 125 Beach Street ff144 Santa Cruz, CA 95060 (408)425-1446 Interior Secretary Re-Leases Coast As a result of new negotiations between Interior Secretary Donald P. Hodel and major oil companies, the entire California coastline is once again up for grabs. Less than two months after he announced a "compromise," reached with key members of the California Congressional delegation, that protected the majority of the state's waters from drilling until the year 2000, Hodel caved in to pressure from the oil industry and backed out of the agreement. The compromise brought an end to a Congressionally mandated four-year moratorium on oil exploration in environmentally sensitive areas. The moratorium was enacted in response to the extremist policies of former Secretary James Watt. California's Congressional delegation is furious at having been betrayed by Hodel. Senator Alan Cranston and Rep. Leon Panetta have introduced bills in the Senate (S1668) and the House (HR3373), to restore the original agreement. Write your legislators and urge them to consider the importance of limiting present offshore drilling programs and achieving a permanent moratorium on offshore development. Keep the Waste Ships in Port Three years ago, a plan to burn toxic waste aboard incinerator ships anchored off the Gulf coast of Florida was suspended amidst public furore over contamination hazards. The EPA's Science Advisory Board (SAB) insists that more research needs to be done. Nevertheless, the EPA continues to push ocean incineration as a method of toxic waste disposal. Last spring, California Congresswoman Barbara Boxer introduced HR 1295, the Ocean Incineration Research Act of 1985. The bill requires that all health and safety questions raised by the public and the EPA's own SAB be resolved before any ocean incineration is permitted. The bill is currently under review by a congressional subcommittee on oceanography, headed by Rep. Barbara Mikulski of Maryland. HR 1295 needs support if it is to gain committee and subsequent House approval. Write or call your Representative. DISARMAMENT Two days after French agents bombed and sunk the Rainbow Warrior in July, and Greenpeace photographer Fernando Pereira drowned as a result, ship's mate Martin Gotje spoke these words. "I'm angry about Fernando and I'm angry about the Warrior. People talk about revenge . . . Well, the sweetest 'revenge' will be to get the French out of the Pacific with their nuclear testing. That is why we must get the Peace Flotilla to Moruroa Atoll." Crewed by women and men of 11 nations, five ships left two hemispheres in the next seven weeks. From Amsterdam, steamed the Greenpeace; from New Zealand, sailed Alliance, Breeze, Varangian and Vega, veteran of five voyages to Moruroa. As of early November, two ships remain at the atoll Varangian, keeping watch at Moruroa's 12-mile French territorial limit, and Vega, held since October 24 when the French Navy boarded the ship seven miles from Moruroa, four hours before a 5-kiloton nuclear bomb was exploded there. So long as testing in the Pacific continues, the Greenpeace campaign to end it goes onward. The crime against the Warrior was great; the crime of nuclear testing far greater. Tears for a Warrior A Painful Decision Winter rain fell over Auckland in July as an elder of the Ngati Whatua tribe of the Maori New Zealand's indigenous people, began a "kai karanga," a keening chant performed by a woman. On the wharf alongside the sunken Warrior, the Maori elders led the Rainbow Warrior crew and a small group of Greenpeace supporters in a ceremony that honored the ship, its achievements and the life of Fernando Pereira, the Greenpeace photographer killed when French agents bombed and sank the Warrior days earlier. Through songs and prayers, the tears of Rangi-Tane, the sky father, poured down-tears for the loss of one with spiritual prestige, what the Maori call "mana." The Rainbow Warrior remained stuck at the bottom of Auckland harbor for six weeks following the ceremony, while everyone from curious onlooker to skilled engineer speculated on its chances for salvage and repair. "I hate to be pessimistic," said Warrior radio operator Lloyd Anderson. "But the damage done is not going to be some-thing we can fix by putting on a patch and washing out the ship with a fire hose. The crew is prepared to do whatever we can to see her sail again but the cost - if it's possible to recover the boat at all - will be staggering." Tug boats towed the ship into dry dock at the New Zealand Navy base in Auckland on August 22 - five weeks later the Warrior had been made sufficiently watertight to float. But the prognosis for repair was grim. "The Warrior's in a sorry state indeed," said Maureen Falloon, executive director of Greenpeace's marine division. "She's a far picture from the ship I saw off last March when it sailed for the Pacific from Florida." On September 26, the boat was moved to a berth lent to Greenpeace by Auckland's harbor board. There the crippled Rainbow Warrior waited for a decision, while on the other side of the globe, Greenpeace council trustees gathered in southern England for their annual meeting. Representatives of 15 national Greenpeace offices surveyed photo documentation of the extensive destruction to the ship. They reviewed detailed lists of damages, and the reports that explained the lists. They evaluated repair estimates that would swallow enormous chunks of Greenpeace campaign funds. Throughout, the question of what to do with the Warrior caused every bit as much pain as they knew it would. Opinions were varied, and emotions, deep and strong. In the end, the venerable Warrior learned the Pacific it had sailed so recently would forever be its home. "A decent burial at sea is the only honorable end for this ship," said Green peace Chairman David McTaggart after Greenpeace accepted a proposal from the New Zealand Underwater Association. "Undertaking to repair her is just not practical." The Warrior will be thoroughly cleaned of pollutants, then sunk in approximately 100 feet of water off the New Zealand coast. Acting as an artificial reef, the ship will become a haven for the marine life she campaigned to protect and a "museum" for divers peacefully exploring the sea. A story of Alliance Gael Johnson, 26, is navigator aboard the ketch-rigged, Alliance, a 42-foot steel scow that's part of the Pacific Peace Flotilla. The following narrative, based on a letter from Gael, begins at approximately 24 degrees south of the equator and 17 degrees west of Moruroa. It's September 25, and the crew of Alliance has to make a decision. As Rurutu island appears on the horizon, we feel drawn, maybe homesick: her bare and scrubby hills look not unlike New Zealand's peaks. But the shore is fringed with white sand, spray flies from the reef and coconut palms are everywhere. This is Polynesia. Against all odds, we have made it almost due east from Rarotonga, "motor sailing" with winds that never blow here - westerlies! With the help of old tarpaulins that we sewed into huge square sails and attached to bamboo poles, we've been pushing along at four knots, using only half a gallon of diesel per hour. But to make it to Moruroa in time to join the other ships, we'll need more fuel. As Rurutu grows bigger, the seven people of our crew gather in the wheelhouse to debate. Should Alliance risk approaching a French-governed island for fuel? On the way to stop the bomb at Moruroa, are we fools for even considering the port? Tony [Tony Still, 35, owner and skipper of Alliance] goes below to soothe the hiccups of our old Ailsa Craig, motor of many odd noises. Above, we radio to Rurutu. No reply. We read and reread our book of pilot regulations. We decide to go in. After we tie up, a few locals gather. "Sharleen," who speaks English, volunteers to go ring the gendarme for us so we can report our entry. She runs back. "He is coming quickly. The gendarme is very, very interested in you and your boat." We feel a tingle. The gendarme arrives, then drives off with Tony and Ladd [Ladd Holroyd, 22, deckhand], who speaks French. The rest of us, with no permission to walk the French-claimed soil, stay on board Alliance. I study the almost-full moon's reflection on the water, and think about the many people who are connected to us being here. Frank [Frank Gaglia, 26, radio operator] has been lounging in the wheelhouse with his darling radios, and suddenly one word is loud and clear: "Vega, Vega . . . " It's Peter Willcox! [Willcox, former captain of the Rainbow Warrior, was aboard the Vega as radio operator.] Frank makes contact and tells him we are in Rurutu. "Could you spell that, Frank?" "Romeo Uniform Romeo Uniform Tango Uniform." "Do you anticipate any delay?" Peter drawls. (Does he really mean: "Will the French force you to stay at Rurutu?") "Negative, Peter," says Frank. "Negative. No delay anticipated. Estimated time of departure: tomorrow morning. Over." "ETA Moruroa?" "Ten days," says Frank. (Ten days? With a lot of luck, I think.) Goodbye, Peter. We love you. At last the gendarme returns with Tony and Ladd. It seems he is impress ed by our nighttime navigation of to. channel. The conversation is polite. tells us we can go to a restaurant nearby for dinner, then leaves. After dinner we return to the boat. Paul, who's kept watch, reports that the gendarme has revisited Alliance - and taken our passports and gone. Evidently, he's had his ear on a telephone line to somewhere outside of this remote paradise. We go to sleep. A ragged night. At dawn, there is a woman alone on the wharf, watching the boat. She calls to me: "You go to Mururoa?" "Tahiti," I say, but answer "Yes!" with my eyes. I go ashore. The woman has a strong face, watery dark eyes and tattoos on her hand. She tells me her name is Ingrid. And she knows where Alliance is heading and why. If the French would give us self-government," she whispers, "we would say no to their tests." She speaks of Oscar Temaru, the mayor of Tahiti's second-largest city, Faa. I tell her we are carrying a letter to give him. He has "heart and love," Ingrid says. We clasp hands and touch cheeks. She cries almost, but is strong. Sometime after 1 o'clock, Tony and Ladd return from a 10 a.m. appointment at the gendarme's office. With them are two uniformed gendarmes, a Customs official from Tahiti and a doctor. Do they want coffee? No. Well, yes. Then one of the gendarmes asks to see our papers for the radio, and Tony gets the box where they're kept. He brings it down and opens it up and from the top of the paper-pile stares a word: the green- inked "Greenpeace" of letterhead stationary. The gendarme speaks first. "I know you are planning to go to Moruroa," he says and signals the Customs agent to begin searching the boat. The agent removes the letter for Oscar Temaru from my handbag - but when the gendarme isn't looking, he gives it back. "It is not good for the gendarme to see this," he warns, and tells me the letter's words have touched him. Later, I give him a pin with a "P" on it - for "peace" to give to his grandson, whose birthday it is. When Alliance was in Rarotonga, a young girl gave me the pin. A reporter, now, has materialized from somewhere and stands on the ship's deck observing. The gendarme asks Tony questions. "How many are on the ship Breeze?" "How long will you stay at Moruroa?" And, finally, "What is your strategy?" Well, well . . . what can we tell him about "strategy"? That we carry letters designed specially to corrupt Customs agents? That we held tactical training in New Zealand, and diagrammed a plot to deliver a pin from a girl in Rarotonga to a boy in Rurutu? Our strategy is much simpler. Part of it is to bear witness to nuclear tests, atrocities committed against the earth. Part of it is to carry information on nuclear testing, waste dumping and radiation to the islands and people we visit. Part of it is to deliver, too, whatever hope and energy we can. Our strategy is embodied by five ships sailing through a huge ocean, united as a flotilla for peace. It calls out from the prow of our ship. Our strategy is our name: alliance. --Elyse Chiland In Rurutu, Alliance received a permit that will allow it to visit the islands of French Polynesia for up to three months. The ship loaded more fuel, and set out on the last third of its 2,300-mile voyage to Moruroa. Three days before the Greenpeace arrived off Moruroa, the foreign ministers of Australia and Chile condemned French nuclear testing in speeches to the United Nations General Assembly. Aboard the Greenpeace, campaign coordinator Gerd Leipold noted that "the enormous sums of money France is spending to have its naval vessels watch us would be far better spent in aiding the victims of radiation from exposure to nuclear weapons tests. " The Greenpeace - from the English Channel to Moruroa - was shadowed by French warships, a reminder that French President Mitterrand threatened force to counter the Peace Flotilla. Atkinson Report: Stilted Science A sparkling acquittal is what you might expect from a murder trial in which the prosecution, its witnesses and evidence, are chosen in advance by the defense council. But that isn't the result of the controversial Atkinson Report, a scientific review by an international team of scientists who, in 1983, spent four days at Moruroa reviewing areas and evidence made available by French hosts. The scientists were forbidden from monitoring an actual nuclear explosion, and certain areas of the atoll were off limits. Health statistics contained in their report were furnished by the French and cannot be regarded as adequate, in particular because detailed information on causes of death, was, until recently, available only for deaths occurring in hospitals. Still, the report provides enough fodder for independent scientists to draw conclusions discounting the French government's claim that the report shows Moruroa's geological structure ensures maximum safety for underground tests. The French moved their tests at Moruroa underground in 1976 and have since exploded more than 70 bombs. It is believed that until a couple of years ago, the bombs were exploded beneath the atoll's reef and that since then, tests have taken place deep beneath Moruroa's lagoon. Why did France's nuclear scientists relocate the tests? Quite possibly, according to Manfred Hochstein, director of Auckland University's Geothermal Institute, because pressure from the blasts caused a layer of clay that helps support the atoll - a layer French scientists said was "impermeable" and prevented radioactive seawater from moving up from the explosion and into the lagoon - to compact; part of the reef subsided and became submerged. The French claim that about 95 percent of the radioactivity generated by a nuclear test is encased by molten rock surrounding the bomb blast deep within the earth. In the Atkinson Report's summary, it is estimated that contaminated seawater moves up from the explosion area at the low rate of one meter per year. Therefore, the report's long-term review of testing effects accepts an estimate of 500 to 1,000 years for radioactive material to reach the lagoon. These statistics, say Hochstein and Dr. George Grindley, chief project geologist of the Geological Survey in New Zealand, are scientifically unacceptable; they are based on rock sampled prior to testing and do not represent conditions which now exist. Rongelap Update The Marshallese people of Rongelap Atoll, who moved to Mejato Island last May with the help of the Rainbow Warrior, have completed shelters for everyone living on the island, reports Rongelap Senator Jeton Anjain. Fishing in the surrounding waters has been good, and the people are now clearing land to plant fruits and vegetables. Rongelap's people asked Greenpeace at the end of 1984 to help them move from their traditional home where radiation - and a legacy of stillbirths miscarriages, thyroid cancer and leukemia - remains as the result of United States nuclear tests in the Pacific during the 1940s and '50s. The 350 people now living on Mejato, 120 of whom are children, need cloth. Cotton material is best. Queries and donations should be directed to Sebia Hawkins or Elyse Chiland at Greenpeace, 1611 Connecticut Ave. N.W. Washington, D.C. 20009 USA, telephone (202) 462-1177. Non-Proliferation Treaty: Vote for Disarmament BY ANDRE CAROTHERS Geneva, Wednesday, September 19: With 48 hours left in the four week conference, the 86 nations in attendance were deadlocked. All major issues relating to the Third Review of the Non- proliferation Treaty had been largely resolved, save one - the nuclear test ban. On one side were the United states and the United Kingdom adamant in their opposition to any initiative that would interfere with the Reagan administration's weapons development plans. On the other, more than 80 of the 130 nations party to the NPT, all of which had come to Geneva to demand an end to nuclear tests. Greenpeace was there, working to ensure that the call for an end to the arms race was heard around the world. Six Greenpeace representatives met with all the prominent non-weapons states, sharing information and ideas on ways to organize an effective effort to end nuclear testing. It took 48 hours of back room negotiating, but by Friday afternoon the two camps had reached an agreement. Instead of a vote, the Conference, except for "certain states" (read: the U.S. and U.K.), resolved that negotiations on a treaty to end nuclear testing should resume "in 1985." While not as noticeable as a highly public vote, the con census document is nevertheless a clear and strong indictment of the U.S. position: the Reagan administration has not only rejected out of hand the Soviet offer of a five-month testing moratorium, it has also all but abandoned the pretence that a Comprehensive Test Ban (CTB) cannot be verified. The Reagan administration wants to continue testing for nuclear weapons development. Period. Why didn't the non-nuclear nations push for the vote? First of all, organizing dozens of countries with diverse goals and opinions into a lobbying force is difficult, and few nations wanted to take the lead in opposing the United states. The U.S. worked hard to prevent a vote, lobbying key nations in advance and deploying a dozen lobbyists and international lawyers in Geneva. Finally, several nations indicated they no longer saw any potential for influencing the weapons states' defense policies in multilateral for a such as the NPT. In 1995, the signatories will meet to decide if the NPT treaty is worth keeping. Its survival past that date is by no means guaranteed. Because of the continuing arms race, several signatories are considering leaving the NPT, and others, such as France and China, have refused to join. Ultimately, of course, all nations' interests are served by a strong and effective NPT. The NPT is one of the only international impediments to uncontrolled global commerce in uranium and plutonium. It is also one of the few international agreements around which a global disarmament process can begin. For the NPT to be truly effective in slowing the arms race, the non-nuclear nations must be willing to organize and act on their beliefs. For the NPT to survive and be truly effective in stopping the spread of nuclear weapons, the United States and the Soviet Union must accede to the treaty nations' demands for real arms control. An informed and active public is crucial to Rarotonga Treaty The South Pacific is now a nuclear free zone. On August 6, the South Pacific Forum, a 13-nation coalition including Australia, New Zealand and island nations such as Fiji and Tonga, agreed to a treaty banning the testing and placement of nuclear weapons, and the dumping of radioactive waste, in the South Pacific. The agreement, known as the Treaty of Rarotonga, is an important step, solidifying regional opposition to France's testing program and providing a political foundation to global anti testing efforts. It does not, however affect significant nuclear activities such as testing of unarmed missiles and establishment of support facilities (the U.S. maintains extensive command, control, communications and intelligence networks here). Efforts by several nations to strengthen the treaty's anti-nuclear provisions failed during negotiations; for this reason, Vanuatu has decided not to ratify. Free at Last After over two years of captivity in East Germany (German Democratic Republic), the Greenpeace hot air balloon, Trinity, is free. On October 11th at 10 a.m., Greenpeace Germany Director Harald Zindler received the $15,000 dollar balloon at checkpoint Zarrentinn/Hagenow in exchange for a little more than $3,000 - to cover "costs of transport, surveillance and telephone calls." The Trinity has been in East Germany since August 28, 1983. On that day, Greenpeace campaigners Gerd Leipold and John Sprange guided it into West Berlin airspace, flying banners in protest of continued nuclear testing by the United States, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom and France. They crossed the Berlin Wall and landed in East German territory near Gross-Ziethen, where they were arrested and extradited to West Germany. But the balloon stayed behind, kept in custody by East German authorities. Over the next two years, despite pleas from Greenpeace to East German police headquarters, the cabinet council and the Ministry of Transport, East Germany refused to yield the balloon. Greenpeace tried again after the bombing of the Rainbow Warrior. "We urge you to help us get our balloon back, " said the Greenpeace appeal. "We will use it the way we have in the past - as a peace messenger to campaign against nuclear weapons." In addition to the balloon, East German officers at the checkpoint gave Zindler a written demand that Greenpeace respect their nation's airspace and borders in the future. Zindler responded honestly: "We will use the Trinity in future campaigns wherever we feel it's necessary." 'L'Affaire,' In Context BY DOUGLAS LAVALLEE L'Express, a leading French weekly, tried to sum it up: "News of the affair has become such a scandal and such an embroglio that there is hardly any chance for authorities to get out of it without designating as guilty one of their key characters . . . " Following what appears to be the international norm in reporting on the incident, L'Express took a narrow view of the "news." The French government's culpability, which unfortunately dominated the headlines, goes well beyond a bungled bit of terrorism. By persisting with its nuclear weapons testing program in the South Pacific, this country has ignored the demands of the international community and a ruling of the International Court of Justice, it endangers the health of thousands and the integrity of the Pacific marine ecosystem and it continues to behave more like a backward dictatorship than a civilized nation. The real news is not in the offices of the French secret service but at Moruroa - where French President Mitterrand detonated another nuclear bomb on October 25 - and in Washington, where the Reagan administration's definition of terrorism has apparently been amended so as not to include "la variete Francaise." What irks France's ardent defenders most about "L'Affaire Greenpeace" (a popular press label taken from "L'Affaire Dreyfus," a turn-of-the-century French military scandal) is that the operation was bungled. Two agents implicated in the bombing were arrested in New Zealand and await trial on charges of murder and arson. Meanwhile, the concern at France's Elysee, the Presidential Palace, has been to save face. When President Mitterrand took power in 1981, he brought in an old friend, Charles Hernu, as defense minister. Hernu was the architect of the Socialists' new-found enthusiasm for expanding France's nuclear arsenal, what President Charles de Gaulle named the "force de frappe." It was Hernu who agreed to allow French secret service (DGSE) agents to "reflect on ways and means to counteract" Greenpeace actions in the South Pacific, and Hernu who underlined the word "anticiper" in a memo on Greenpeace from the head of the nuclear testing center at Moruroa. The verb "anticiper" often means to "prevent" or "deliberately forestall." Did Mitterand know? The money to blow up the Warrior came from a special fund earmarked for security purposes and managed by General Jean Saulnier, the President's chief of staff. Normally, Mitterrand would have been told of any such transaction. In the end, L'Express' narrow analysis proved correct. President Mitterrand fired a "key character," Hernu, who said he didn't know a team had been sent to blow up the ship. Admiral Pierre Lacoste, head of the DGSE, refused to talk and was also ousted. With this token bit of housecleaning (the only people the French government has actually arrested are those who leaked information to the press) the Mitterrand administration hopes the issue will go away. In fact, the question of who knew and who didn't has long lost its fascination, at least for those who can see beyond cloak- and-dagger headlines. The real story is one of global security. The French government apparently believes bombing and murder in defense of its nuclear program to be in the national interest. And the Reagan administration has given that defense its tacit approval, in the form of a deafening silence, believing that to be in the United states' national interest. These are the lengths, then, that the international nuclear obsession requires. And the popular press chatters on, ignoring the obvious threat to survival that the sloppy sabotage of a Greenpeace ship forbodes. Greenpeace is suing the government of France. The organization has accepted legal assistance on a pro bono basis from a team of attorneys led by Lloyd Cutler, an internationally known lawyer and special council to President Carter on the Salt II Treaty. We can never replace the Rainbow Warrior, and we can never collect money for the value of Fernando's life. But we owe it to the Warrior and our supporters to continue the ship's campaigns. We want payment only for what was lost, where what was lost can be paid for. The Stuff of Which Bombs are Made The Australian government has declared at home and at the United Nations its opposition to the arms race in general and France's Pacific nuclear testing program in particular. Like many nuclear exporters Australia purports to keep close tabs on the ultimate destination of its milled uranium (yellow cake), and expressly prohibits transfers of Australian yellow cake to France. In short, Australia's anti-nuclear credentials appear, if not impeccable, then at least in order. That's why there was such a public outcry on September 19th when Greenpeace publicized a letter, written by an official of a West German company, that revealed Australian uranium was being sold to France. And that's why Greenpeace launched a blockade of the British-registered container ship Clydebank as it attempted to dock at Darwin on September 21st and load nearly 100 tons of Australian uranium headed for destinations unknown. "By intervening at this stage," said Greenpeace campaigner Michelle Sheather, "Greenpeace is focusing attention on the contradictions of Australia's uranium export policy and its role in fuelling the global arms race." Enormous quantities of weapons grade uranium and plutonium exist in reactors, storehouses and warheads around the world. The bomb that destroyed Hiroshima contained one kilogram of uranium; the United States and Soviet Union probably have more than one million kilograms in military stockpiles. Despite elaborate international safeguards, global commerce in nuclear weapons material is almost impossible to control. Australia may well be supplying the uranium for the French test explosions it so vigorously condemns. Some observers declare that diversion of weapons material into the hands of international terrorists is inevitable. Green peace believes Australia's best contribution to promoting arms control and averting the threat of nuclear terrorism or radioactive contamination would be to end its role as global supplier of uranium. -Reported by Melanie Thiedeman, coordinator, Greenpeace Australia uranium campaign